Hardboard Furniture

One very versatile synthetic paneling material is hardboard. Usually quite flat on one side and screened on the reverse, hardboard is made of wood chips that have been separated into personel fibers then bonded under heat and pressure into sheets of dense wood fiber. For added moisture resistance and strength, some hardboard is tempered with thermal-setting materials baked into place.

Hardboard comes in dark brow, gray, or blond; plain, striated, or perforated. Thicknesses range from 1/10 to 5/16-inch. The thinner types are extremely flexible, and the thicker types can be bent by manufacture a few saw cuts on the reverse side of the bend.

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Hardboard's density makes it one of the most dent-resistant of all the panel products - exquisite for flat areas that must take wear. The flat end is ideal for painting, and will not check or split in weather. Because the fibers are not aligned, the board has force in all directions.

Hardboard Furniture

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Problems with hardboard contain its inability to hold nails or screws securely; the fact that it expands and contracts with changes in moisture (presenting problems with joints); and its sometimes cold, hard appearance.

In addition to quarterly hardboard and the two types listed below, you can buy numerous types, such as striated or combed-finish hardboard; plastic-coated types simulating tile, marble, wood grain, and leather; corrugated hardboard; pre-stained hardboard; and painted hardboard.

Perforated hardboard is one of the most popular varieties. It is very good for sliding cabinet doors and stereo-cabinet backs, as it allows air to circulate; or, it can be used for a "hang-up" storehouse wall (a wide collection of specially-sized hooks and supports that fit into the perforations are available at hardware stores).

Wood particle or "flake boards" are made from particles of wood rather than from refined wood fibers. Chips give a speckled appearance, in dissimilarity to the flat look of lowly hardboard. They are made in thicknesses varying from ¼-inch paneling material up to ¾-inch boards for more structural uses. Particle boards are made from a number of different wood species including redwood, maple, cedar, pine, fir, and a combination of pine and fir.

You can work hardboard with lowly shop tools. When hand sawing, use an 8 to 12 teeth-per-inch handsaw and cut at a fairly flat angle. When cutting with a power saw, use a low-set carbide-tipped combination or crosscut blade - adjusted so that only two or three teeth show straight through hardboard while cutting. Always cut hardboard with the flat face up.

Edges can be worked with a shallow-set, sharp plane; a file or rasp (worked lengthwise); or sandpaper. If sanding causes edges to "fuzz-up," operate them with a wash coat of shellac before final dressing. Panel surfaces should not be sanded.

Most hardboard can be painted, enameled, stained, waxed, varnished, or lacquered. Unless the material you buy is specially treated and requires no prime coat, Always use a good sealer or primer for both interior and covering work.

Before you paint hardboard, apply one coat of a pigmented or clear resin or penetrating sealer. For a natural finish, you can apply a clear sealer before the wax, lacquer, or varnish end in order to cut darkening of the wood.

When working with particle of flake boards, you may want to use a wood paste filler to insure a flat end for such items as table and desk tops. Result the manufacturer's directions in applying the filler, then sand for a perfectly flat surface. For natural or stained finishes, use transparent paste filler. Don't use steel wool on untreated particle-finish panels. The fine threads may catch on the personel wood fibers or chips exposed on the surface.

Hardboard Furniture

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